Fixing Granny's house

This is what happens when there is no steel, like mesh or rebar, in the concrete, it will fracture and then begin to move. Concrete slabs are said to be able to last 500 years. There's usually a 'City Code' that mandates the 'First Floor' (the concrete slab) be a minimum of 18" ABOVE the crown of the road in front of the House so the rain water runs -----------> that way.

I don't even pour a 4" shed floor, without putting mesh, rebar, or both in it and not a single one has ever cracked or split.
 
I think that particular house had other issues. It was built around 1980 give or take when the whole subdivision went up. It is the only house with a slab. I suspect there is a giant boulder/rock formation under part of it they were trying to cheat around to turn it into a buildable lot as cheaply as possible and as the house settled, part of the slab settled onto rock and part of it didn't which goofed up the load on the slab. I have no proof of this other than it is on a high point and the golf course it backs up to has a lot of random large rockfaces protruding out of the surface in places where one would not naturally want them on a golf course for maintenance reasons, like in the middle of fairways, approaches to greens, and such. Every other house in the subdivision is either built on block foundations or piers.

Check locally and see if there are any companies that will do foundation injections, under a side that has 'settled'.
It will not only relevel the concrete; but add a lot of stability, that will prevent future problems.
 

We live in an older adobe wall home (1940).
The front and back door are in a direct line (air flow); but there is a crack and settling all the way from the front door to the back.
More so by the front door; because I think when they poured the extension slab for the fireplace, I don't think they poured the outer foundation as deep and it put a strain on that side of the house.

Had a main water line leak (old pipes) many years ago and digging down to the pipe, the foundation(s) were at least 3 foot deep; but that as far as we dug down, so they might even go deeper.
 
We live in an older adobe wall home (1940).
The front and back door are in a direct line (air flow); but there is a crack and settling all the way from the front door to the back.
More so by the front door; because I think when they poured the extension slab for the fireplace, I don't think they poured the outer foundation as deep and it put a strain on that side of the house.

Had a main water line leak (old pipes) many years ago and digging down to the pipe, the foundation(s) were at least 3 foot deep; but that as far as we dug down, so they might even go deeper.

I guess it depends on where you live?

" adobe wall home (1940)." ... wow. Are you in the Southwest? That may be a great way to cool and heat your home?

Side Note:
We went to Hoover Dam, took the Tour, asked about the steel in the Dam. Was told "There is no reinforcing steel in the Hoover Dam, it's built like a Roman Arch on it's side, it's only under 'compression'".
Suppose to last 2,000 years. Not bad for a bunch of Depression era (1935) boys. :)
 
Check locally and see if there are any companies that will do foundation injections, under a side that has 'settled'.
It will not only relevel the concrete; but add a lot of stability, that will prevent future problems.

Not my property to deal with. I heard third hand they couldn't get anybody to fix it because the crack runs under the wall all the way to the outside of the slab, but that may be because you just don't have a lot of experience locally with slab foundations in residential construction in these parts.
 
I guess it depends on where you live?

" adobe wall home (1940)." ... wow. Are you in the Southwest? That may be a great way to cool and heat your home?

Side Note:
We went to Hoover Dam, took the Tour, asked about the steel in the Dam. Was told "There is no reinforcing steel in the Hoover Dam, it's built like a Roman Arch on it's side, it's only under 'compression'".
Suppose to last 2,000 years. Not bad for a bunch of Depression era (1935) boys. :)

Living in AZ, Phoenix area; but not Phoenix.

Planning on putting in AC, within the next year.
The Swamp Cooler ain't worth shit, when it's humid; but it is easy to heat.
We've got a little bitty gas heater, in the dining room and it does a good job; but my wife wants to make the inside like an oven, during the winter. :palm:
 
I guess it depends on where you live?

" adobe wall home (1940)." ... wow. Are you in the Southwest? That may be a great way to cool and heat your home?

Side Note:
We went to Hoover Dam, took the Tour, asked about the steel in the Dam. Was told "There is no reinforcing steel in the Hoover Dam, it's built like a Roman Arch on it's side, it's only under 'compression'".
Suppose to last 2,000 years. Not bad for a bunch of Depression era (1935) boys. :)

The "expert" that told you that was only off by 45 million pounds.

http://www.romanconcrete.com/docs/hooverdam/hooverdam.htm
 
Living in AZ, Phoenix area; but not Phoenix.

Planning on putting in AC, within the next year.
The Swamp Cooler ain't worth shit, when it's humid; but it is easy to heat.
We've got a little bitty gas heater, in the dining room and it does a good job; but my wife wants to make the inside like an oven, during the winter. :palm:

Arizona. I always thought if I lived in a place like that I would build an 'Underground House'. Adobe must work pretty good, capturing the relatively coolness of night and keeping the House somewhat cool until noon or so? Do you have trees to provide shade?

'Humidity'? Do they have THAT in Arizona?

I would think the 'little bitty gas heater' would be all you would need. Do you have it ducted to the other rooms, especially around the perimeter and near large heat drains like big windows?

My uncle lived in Mesa until he died a few years ago. I never made it there, ... but I did make it to the Yuma Territorial Prison and saw where they would chain prisoners to rocks and let them bake in the sun, ... that had to be fucked. I'm guessing no Sun Block back then?
 
Arizona. I always thought if I lived in a place like that I would build an 'Underground House'. Adobe must work pretty good, capturing the relatively coolness of night and keeping the House somewhat cool until noon or so? Do you have trees to provide shade?

'Humidity'? Do they have THAT in Arizona?

I would think the 'little bitty gas heater' would be all you would need. Do you have it ducted to the other rooms, especially around the perimeter and near large heat drains like big windows?

My uncle lived in Mesa until he died a few years ago. I never made it there, ... but I did make it to the Yuma Territorial Prison and saw where they would chain prisoners to rocks and let them bake in the sun, ... that had to be fucked. I'm guessing no Sun Block back then?

No one builds 'underground'; because of the caliche layer.
It tears up digging equipment like you've never seen; but I agree that it would be the smartest.

Years ago we went and looked a really large Dome Home, that was built in Ahwatukee .
Half the house was underground and they piled the dirt on top of the part above ground.
Sealed it and planted grass, so it looked like a big ole hill.
Walk inside and you couldn't hear any noise from the outside.

We live on land that used to be an old river bed, millions of years ago, so it's pretty much all sand.
I'm planning on building a 10x20 barn style shed, with a loft that is tall enough to stand up in; plus I'm going to put an 8 foot high "cellar" under it.
If it works out as planned, I'll probably build two.
Building two; because I don't need a building permit to build anything 120 sq. ft. or smaller. :D

When the monsoon season starts (end of July through September) the humidity level goes "through the roof".

No duct work on the heater and we can small fans to move the warm air into other rooms, if needed.
 
What does that tell you about self-proclaimed experts?

If it's under compression, I could see why they would not need steel. Concrete is GREAT for 'compression', ... not too good for 'bending'.
I can see a 'Roman Arch' transferring the load to the sides. Versus a Flat Beam, where the load is on the middle and creates 'tension' or a bending in the middle.
 
No one builds 'underground'; because of the caliche layer.
It tears up digging equipment like you've never seen; but I agree that it would be the smartest.

Years ago we went and looked a really large Dome Home, that was built in Ahwatukee .
Half the house was underground and they piled the dirt on top of the part above ground.
Sealed it and planted grass, so it looked like a big ole hill.
Walk inside and you couldn't hear any noise from the outside.

We live on land that used to be an old river bed, millions of years ago, so it's pretty much all sand.
I'm planning on building a 10x20 barn style shed, with a loft that is tall enough to stand up in; plus I'm going to put an 8 foot high "cellar" under it.
If it works out as planned, I'll probably build two.
Building two; because I don't need a building permit to build anything 120 sq. ft. or smaller. :D

When the monsoon season starts (end of July through September) the humidity level goes "through the roof".

No duct work on the heater and we can small fans to move the warm air into other rooms, if needed.

You could always backfill material around a structure to moderate the temperature increase/decrease. I heard the biggest problem is moisture? I guess you need some kind of moisture barrier?

"8' cellar, shed, and 7' Loft", sounds like a 3 story building? Plan on doing it yourself? I built a 2 story house with a 10/12 pitch roof so it was tall enough to stand, but it was like 30' feet wide ... and I needed my old Lady to handle the top of the rafters while I nailed the tail ends to the top plate and ceiling joists. Plan on getting some help?

I heard that was the main problem with Wood Stoves, all the heat is concentrated around a small area and never reaches other rooms. Duct work and a small fan seem to be the answer. Naturally, figuring this BEFORE you build would be the Key Ingredient.

Sounds like a fun project, hope you are a youthful person, I notice as you get older it seems less fun?
 
"Years ago we went and looked a really large Dome Home, that was built in Ahwatukee .
Half the house was underground and they piled the dirt on top of the part above ground.
Sealed it and planted grass, so it looked like a big ole hill.
Walk inside and you couldn't hear any noise from the outside."

That and the constant temperature (68 degrees ?) is the Big Draw. Getting sufficient natural light to rooms is a problem, along with a moisture problem, or so I hear. My understanding is these homes are built with concrete. With MASSIVE attention to moisture problems! Solar orientation is also a major concern. Building it like a Thermos Bottle and facing it South is great if you live up North, not so much if you live in the South.
 
You could always backfill material around a structure to moderate the temperature increase/decrease. I heard the biggest problem is moisture? I guess you need some kind of moisture barrier?

"8' cellar, shed, and 7' Loft", sounds like a 3 story building? Plan on doing it yourself? I built a 2 story house with a 10/12 pitch roof so it was tall enough to stand, but it was like 30' feet wide ... and I needed my old Lady to handle the top of the rafters while I nailed the tail ends to the top plate and ceiling joists. Plan on getting some help?

I heard that was the main problem with Wood Stoves, all the heat is concentrated around a small area and never reaches other rooms. Duct work and a small fan seem to be the answer. Naturally, figuring this BEFORE you build would be the Key Ingredient.

Sounds like a fun project, hope you are a youthful person, I notice as you get older it seems less fun?

Not to much ground moisture where I live, unless it rains; but I plan on water sealing the block that will be underground.
Barn shed roofs are easy to build and I already have a pattern I can use to pre-frame them.
Plenty of family help, when I need it.

Going to use, chain link fence posts inside of the block, to add extra reinforcement.

We have ceiling fans to help move the warm air around and it works really good.
 
Not to much ground moisture where I live, unless it rains; but I plan on water sealing the block that will be underground.
Barn shed roofs are easy to build and I already have a pattern I can use to pre-frame them.
Plenty of family help, when I need it.

Going to use, chain link fence posts inside of the block, to add extra reinforcement.

We have ceiling fans to help move the warm air around and it works really good.

Sounds like a Plan, ... you're half way there. :)

Good Luck.
 
Sounds like a Plan, ... you're half way there. :)

Good Luck.

The longer I plan it in my head, the more the ideas seem to come.

Talked to a local builder and since most of what I'm going to have excavated is going to be sand; I'm going to also compact it in the bricks, for added insulation and support.

I am thinking of adding solar panels, with a battery back up, just so I don't have to get a permit to have it connected to the local power company. :D

Even thinking of adding some plumbing (toilet and sink) after it's all done.
[wink-wink / nod-nod]
 
The longer I plan it in my head, the more the ideas seem to come.

Talked to a local builder and since most of what I'm going to have excavated is going to be sand; I'm going to also compact it in the bricks, for added insulation and support.

I am thinking of adding solar panels, with a battery back up, just so I don't have to get a permit to have it connected to the local power company. :D

Even thinking of adding some plumbing (toilet and sink) after it's all done.
[wink-wink / nod-nod]

Ok. Now I see why you don't want to have to get a Building Permit. :)

You should draw something up. If you get too many plans in your head, they could conflict with each other at some point. How big is your Electric Service? Can you provide a sub panel in the Shed for Power?
 
Ok. Now I see why you don't want to have to get a Building Permit. :)

You should draw something up. If you get too many plans in your head, they could conflict with each other at some point. How big is your Electric Service? Can you provide a sub panel in the Shed for Power?

I could run power to it and put in a power box; but I just don't want to deal with the inspection nitpicking and solar cells will provide ample power for any power tools, plus cooling and/or heating.

I plan on use the cooler air, in the "cellar" to help cool the rest of the shed.
 
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