Fixing Granny's house

I could run power to it and put in a power box; but I just don't want to deal with the inspection nitpicking and solar cells will provide ample power for any power tools, plus cooling and/or heating.

I plan on use the cooler air, in the "cellar" to help cool the rest of the shed.

Don't call the 'Inspector'. Just steal some Power to a sub panel in the Shed. You may have overcast/rainy days or nights that your Solar Panels are down or your batteries may be drained? Always good to be on the Grid, just in case?
 
Don't call the 'Inspector'. Just steal some Power to a sub panel in the Shed. You may have overcast/rainy days or nights that your Solar Panels are down or your batteries may be drained? Always good to be on the Grid, just in case?

Running a power cable to the shed, from the house, would require me burying the cable almost 100 feet.

Doable; but I think cost effectiveness wouldn't fit in.

Our "overcast/rainy days or nights", are few and far between.

Most of the time, the rain drops in the Phoenix area, before it reaches us and the cloudy days are just as far and in-between.

Getting ready to check on adding solar panels to our home; but want them ground mounted.

The south side and back of our yard always gets sunshine, as soon as it's high enough to get past the house.
 
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Running a power cable to the shed, from the house, would require me burying the cable almost 100 feet.

Doable; but I think cost effectiveness would fit in.

Our "overcast/rainy days or nights", are few and far between.

Most of the time, the rain drops in the Phoenix area, before it reaches us and the cloudy days are just as far and in-between.

Getting ready to check on adding solar panels to our home; but want them ground mounted.

The south side and back of our yard always gets sunshine, as soon as it's high enough to get past the house.

Ground mounted takes up yard space but is probably a better choice than having penetrations in your roofing, that always seems to bring problems. Probably easier to clean the panels on the ground rather than getting your wife up on the roof with a sudsy bucket of Cleaner and a pocketful of rags, she'll thank you for this 'Advancrd Planning'.
 
Ground mounted takes up yard space but is probably a better choice than having penetrations in your roofing, that always seems to bring problems. Probably easier to clean the panels on the ground rather than getting your wife up on the roof with a sudsy bucket of Cleaner and a pocketful of rags, she'll thank you for this 'Advancrd Planning'.

We get a lot of blowing dust and that can collect real fast on panels.

Thinking of building a "green house" style shed, over the panels, where it would be easier to just power wash off the dirt.
 
"Running a power cable to the shed, from the house, would require me burying the cable almost 100 feet."
"Doable; but I think cost effectiveness would fit in."

Use Service Entrance cable in an underground feeder. You'll need an 8' ground rod attached to a #6 wire connected to the ground bar in the sub panel. Maybe 60 Amp sub panel?
 
"Running a power cable to the shed, from the house, would require me burying the cable almost 100 feet."
"Doable; but I think cost effectiveness would fit in."

Use Service Entrance cable in an underground feeder. You'll need an 8' ground rod attached to a #6 wire connected to the ground bar in the sub panel. Maybe 60 Amp sub panel?

I would probably add a 100 amp panel box, if I'm going to add one.

I would also have to run the cable, under the sewer line.
 
I would probably add a 100 amp panel box, if I'm going to add one.

I would also have to run the cable, under the sewer line.

They do like Electrical set deep. People get electrocuted when planting a garden with shallow burial. They're a little touchy about stuff like that. :(
 
They do like Electrical set deep. People get electrocuted when planting a garden with shallow burial. They're a little touchy about stuff like that. :(

I could run it in a "sleeve"; but my wife likes planting things, without asking me what's / where first. :eek2:
 
If it's under compression, I could see why they would not need steel. Concrete is GREAT for 'compression', ... not too good for 'bending'.
I can see a 'Roman Arch' transferring the load to the sides. Versus a Flat Beam, where the load is on the middle and creates 'tension' or a bending in the middle.

After I already set you straight, are you still claiming that the the Hoover Dam isn't massively reinforced with steel?

:evilnod:
 
After I already set you straight, are you still claiming that the the Hoover Dam isn't massively reinforced with steel?

:evilnod:

I told you what the Tour Guide said when I asked a specific question. He said it was a 'Roman arch' set sideways. I can see that working since the curved Dam is under 'compression'. I would guess the attachment at the Dam/Rock point would be reinforced.

Have you thought about traveling to the Dam and explaining your opinion to the Tour Guides?
 
I told you what the Tour Guide said when I asked a specific question. He said it was a 'Roman arch' set sideways. I can see that working since the curved Dam is under 'compression'. I would guess the attachment at the Dam/Rock point would be reinforced.

Have you thought about traveling to the Dam and explaining your opinion to the Tour Guides?

I didn't ask you what the tour guide told you but what you believed. Do you believe that the Hoover Dam is not massively reinforced throughout its entire section?

:evilnod:
 
Here you go Dark Soul:


"As a civil engineer, I too am interested in the Hoover dam. I do not know how much rebar was used in the project. I do know that since the structure was a simple gravity dam, no rebar was necessary in the "dam". There are no tensile stresses in that structure. I am sure rebar was used in other structures. But NONE in the dam for structural puposes.

The only reason there is any steel in the structure is to pipe water to cool the mass since concrete curing is an exothermic reaction.

Rebar is used for beams, where there is a tension zone. The rebar provides the tension, the concrete provides the compression and poof, we have a beam.

The dam is no beam. The dam needs no rebar.
Source(s):
Registered Professional Engineer"
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20061024220840AAKv3pQ
 
That's what I figured, also.

The UF is water proof, is usually grey, comes in a cable and has two 'hots' and one 'neutral'. A #8 or #6 would be adequate for a 60 Amp sub panel. I would guess it would have 10 spaces. 15 amp Breakers for lighting, 20 amp Breakers for Power tools, double Breaker for an ac unit.

Good Luck with the Project. I'm going to bed. Later.
 
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