Promo Code

M

MAGA MAN

Let's go Brandon!
I have been looking for a much needed tool for months now and finally decided that I couldn't put off the purchase any longer. It's one of those high quality, made in the USA things, which is great, but it is expensive, and shipping was a whopping $50.

Amazon has it but no break on the price and shipping.

On a whim I looked for a promo code online, found an out of date one, then one that had no expiration: DELTA10. It worked.

So I tried DELTA15 and that worked. DELTA20 worked too. Delta25 did not work lol.

Saved 20%, more than made up for the shipping cost.
 
Dark Soul said:
I have been looking for a much needed tool for months now and finally decided that I couldn't put off the purchase any longer. It's one of those high quality, made in the USA things, which is great, but it is expensive, and shipping was a whopping $50.

Amazon has it but no break on the price and shipping.

On a whim I looked for a promo code online, found an out of date one, then one that had no expiration: DELTA10. It worked.

So I tried DELTA15 and that worked. DELTA20 worked too. Delta25 did not work lol.

Saved 20%, more than made up for the shipping cost.
Click to expand...

Usually anything over $35 is free shipping at Amazon.
 
countryboy said:
Those are cool as fuck. Thanks!
Click to expand...

As on old DIY guy I have been lifting and supporting vehicles for years. For old cars it was easy, but it's gotten progressively more difficult.

Even in my unibody old TBird (mid 60's) there is a large front cross member to lift, then support under the torque boxes. For the rear, it has a Ford 9", which is all heavy gauge welded steel, so just lift from the pumpkin.

Sometime in the 70's Ford went with a cast pumpkin and pressed in/ puddle welded steel tubes and no longer recommended it as a lift point (although many still do). That's probably the cause of "dog walk" that you see in many Ford vans. I've always had lighter Ford cars so was able to to lift that way without a problem.

Now I have two German cars, and they have aero panels underneath and most of the suspension components (which are typically safe to lift from) are difficult to locate. My wife's 328 has a steel boss in the front center which is a lift point, so two regular jack stands under the front support locations makes it safe to remove the jack then change the oil. But it has no comparable lift point in the rear. So far I have not had to lift the rear and get under the car, so I've just used the rear lifting points with a hydraulic jack and not use jack stands.

My Macan has four lift points and that's it. Aside from a large and expensive system this is the only way for a DIYer to lift then support it directly.
 
Dark Soul said:
As on old DIY guy I have been lifting and supporting vehicles for years. For old cars it was easy, but it's gotten progressively more difficult.

Even in my unibody old TBird (mid 60's) there is a large front cross member to lift, then support under the torque boxes. For the rear, it has a Ford 9", which is all heavy gauge welded steel, so just lift from the pumpkin.

Sometime in the 70's Ford went with a cast pumpkin and pressed in/ puddle welded steel tubes and no longer recommended it as a lift point (although many still do). That's probably the cause of "dog walk" that you see in many Ford vans. I've always had lighter Ford cars so was able to to lift that way without a problem.

Now I have two German cars, and they have aero panels underneath and most of the suspension components (which are typically safe to lift from) are difficult to locate. My wife's 328 has a steel boss in the front center which is a lift point, so two regular jack stands under the front support locations makes it safe to remove the jack then change the oil. But it has no comparable lift point in the rear. So far I have not had to lift the rear and get under the car, so I've just used the rear lifting points with a hydraulic jack and not use jack stands.

My Macan has four lift points and that's it. Aside from a large and expensive system this is the only way for a DIYer to lift then support it directly.
Click to expand...

I always appreciate innovative design, and those jack stands certainly fit the bill. Besides, I'm a tool nut. :D
 
Just how fucking fat are you that you need jack stands to change the oil? (maybe cut back on the fried chicken)



Dark Soul said:
As on old DIY guy I have been lifting and supporting vehicles for years. For old cars it was easy, but it's gotten progressively more difficult.

Even in my unibody old TBird (mid 60's) there is a large front cross member to lift, then support under the torque boxes. For the rear, it has a Ford 9", which is all heavy gauge welded steel, so just lift from the pumpkin.

Sometime in the 70's Ford went with a cast pumpkin and pressed in/ puddle welded steel tubes and no longer recommended it as a lift point (although many still do). That's probably the cause of "dog walk" that you see in many Ford vans. I've always had lighter Ford cars so was able to to lift that way without a problem.

Now I have two German cars, and they have aero panels underneath and most of the suspension components (which are typically safe to lift from) are difficult to locate. My wife's 328 has a steel boss in the front center which is a lift point, so two regular jack stands under the front support locations makes it safe to remove the jack then change the oil. But it has no comparable lift point in the rear. So far I have not had to lift the rear and get under the car, so I've just used the rear lifting points with a hydraulic jack and not use jack stands.

My Macan has four lift points and that's it. Aside from a large and expensive system this is the only way for a DIYer to lift then support it directly.
Click to expand...
 
Jack said:
Just how fucking fat are you that you need jack stands to change the oil? (maybe cut back on the fried chicken)
Click to expand...

As usual Jackoff you have no idea what you are talking about but somehow feel the need to pretend otherwise.

Even when I was a 135 pound kid I never chained oil without lifting and supporting the car. It's way too difficult on most cars and impossible for others.

My '64 TBird is very low, has less than 6" clearance at the front cross member and you have to reach well past that and up to even touch the oil filter never mind get a strap wrench on it.

The '11 BMW 328 also has less than 6" ground clearance. The oil plug is on the back of the pan, and it's a long I6 and of course the engine is pushed far back behind the front wheels.

My '18 Macan has much higher clearance but it has a large aerodynamic plate under the entire front end. I think it's something like 19 fasteners to remove it to access the oil drain plug. Luckily I can use a vacuum method with a catheter to evacuate through what used to be the dipstick tube on earlier versions of that engine, and along with the filter cartridge is done standing up, under the hood.
 
You must be a real porker. You could drive any of those on a small 'hill' and dump the oil. Unless of course you want to turn it into a Major Project. Be honest, how big and fat is your head?


Dark Soul said:
As usual Jackoff you have no idea what you are talking about but somehow feel the need to pretend otherwise.

Even when I was a 135 pound kid I never chained oil without lifting and supporting the car. It's way too difficult on most cars and impossible for others.

My '64 TBird is very low, has less than 6" clearance at the front cross member and you have to reach well past that and up to even touch the oil filter never mind get a strap wrench on it.

The '11 BMW 328 also has less than 6" ground clearance. The oil plug is on the back of the pan, and it's a long I6 and of course the engine is pushed far back behind the front wheels.

My '18 Macan has much higher clearance but it has a large aerodynamic plate under the entire front end. I think it's something like 19 fasteners to remove it to access the oil drain plug. Luckily I can use a vacuum method with a catheter to evacuate through what used to be the dipstick tube on earlier versions of that engine, and along with the filter cartridge is done standing up, under the hood.
Click to expand...
 
Jack said:
You must be a real porker. You could drive any of those on a small 'hill' and dump the oil. Unless of course you want to turn it into a Major Project. Be honest, how big and fat is your head?
Click to expand...

You continue to embarrass yourself, exposing the fact that you lack the knowledge to even change the oil in a car.
 
Dark Soul said:
You continue to embarrass yourself, exposing the fact that you lack the knowledge to even change the oil in a car.
Click to expand...

Well, I don't turn it into a Big Production. ...'Strap Wrench'. What do you do? Torque the Oil Filter down so it's impossible to unscrew the next time?
 
Jack said:
You must be a real porker. You could drive any of those on a small 'hill' and dump the oil. Unless of course you want to turn it into a Major Project. Be honest, how big and fat is your head?
Click to expand...

I'd need to jack a vehicle up myself. Not because my size, but because of claustrophobic issues.
 
Dark Soul said:
So you don't know what a strap wrench is either. :palm:
Click to expand...

Yeah. It's for people like you that over tighten the Oil Filter and have to use a strap wrench or just jab a screw driver through the filter and get it off that way. Let me ask you, do you even put oil on the filter gasket before installing it? ... yeah, I didn't think so.
 
Jade Dragon said:
I'd need to jack a vehicle up myself. Not because my size, but because of claustrophobic issues.
Click to expand...

Dark Soul is one of these guys that takes all day to change oil. He has special coveralls with his name above the breast pocket he uses. He wears safety goggles and uses disposable plastic gloves.
 
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