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Jack said:
Yeah. It's for people like you that over tighten the Oil Filter and have to use a strap wrench or just jab a screw driver through the filter and get it off that way. Let me ask you, do you even put oil on the filter gasket before installing it? ... yeah, I didn't think so.
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Looks like Jackoff has been frantically Googlin', trying to catch up lol.

Neither the BMW, the Porsche or even my (sold) '12 Jeep uses a filter gasket. These all use element filters, not a steel can type like back in the old days (and you just read how to change).

Jackoff: "You could drive any of those on a small 'hill' and dump the oil."

Federal Laws Against Dumping car oil
Several federal laws protect the environment from dumping car oil. The Resource Conservation and Recovery Act protects communities and resource conservation and applies to large volumes of hazardous waste, while the Clean Water Act rules that any person who negligently or knowingly dumps oil (or another hazardous substance) into a body of water in the United States may face jail time and heavy fines.

State Laws Against Dumping car oil
If you are found guilty of illegally dumping car oil, you may be sent to jail, fined, put on probation or ordered to do community service. You may also have to pay for any damage caused by your illegal dumping and clean up and/or repair property damaged by your illegal dumping. The consequences vary greatly depending on the circumstances.

Depending on the state, illegal dumping can be a misdemeanor or a felony. Relevant factors are the type of waste and whether it is hazardous, the amount of waste and whether the dumper has committed prior offenses. If you dump hazardous waste or large quantities of waste, or are a repeat offender, a felony charge is more likely.

For example, Texas state law imposes a fine for dumping oil of between $1,000 and $50,000 and up to five years of imprisonment for each day the violation has occurred. Illegally dumping car oil in New York City results in a fine between $1,500 and $20,000. Connecticut state law imposes a fine of $219 for dumping anything larger than one cubic foot and if you are caught using a vehicle to dump, it will be confiscated, you will pay a fine and you may also be arrested. You can also be liable for clean-up costs and fined up to $25,000 per day.
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https://legalbeagle.com/6863823-consequences-illegally-dumping-car-oil.html
 
"Several federal laws protect the environment from dumping car oil."
Oh God! You don't even know what 'Going Green' means. Down here in Louisiana, ... Dumping Oil is called ... Recycling.
 
Jack said:
Dark Soul is one of these guys that takes all day to change oil. He has special coveralls with his name above the breast pocket he uses. He wears safety goggles and uses disposable plastic gloves.
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Disposable plastic gloves, get my O.C.D. mark of approval. I had several boxes just for vacation.
 
Generic419 said:
Prostate exams?
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No, just O.C.D. issues, and first aid. When you stay at hotels, you should always sanitize doorknobs, light switches, faucets, and remotes. Back in 09, we both got sick at the Grand Canyon, and we weren't about to let another trip get ruined.
 
Dark Soul said:
As on old DIY guy I have been lifting and supporting vehicles for years. For old cars it was easy, but it's gotten progressively more difficult.

Even in my unibody old TBird (mid 60's) there is a large front cross member to lift, then support under the torque boxes. For the rear, it has a Ford 9", which is all heavy gauge welded steel, so just lift from the pumpkin.

Sometime in the 70's Ford went with a cast pumpkin and pressed in/ puddle welded steel tubes and no longer recommended it as a lift point (although many still do). That's probably the cause of "dog walk" that you see in many Ford vans. I've always had lighter Ford cars so was able to to lift that way without a problem.

Now I have two German cars, and they have aero panels underneath and most of the suspension components (which are typically safe to lift from) are difficult to locate. My wife's 328 has a steel boss in the front center which is a lift point, so two regular jack stands under the front support locations makes it safe to remove the jack then change the oil. But it has no comparable lift point in the rear. So far I have not had to lift the rear and get under the car, so I've just used the rear lifting points with a hydraulic jack and not use jack stands.

My Macan has four lift points and that's it. Aside from a large and expensive system this is the only way for a DIYer to lift then support it directly.
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I had to make "steps" to drive up on just to get this car high enough to get the lift bars under it at my friend's garage

Picture 006.jpg

Working on it can be a pain! Driving it makes up for it :cool:
 
RB 60 said:
I had to make "steps" to drive up on just to get this car high enough to get the lift bars under it at my friend's garage

View attachment 9067

Working on it can be a pain! Driving it makes up for it :cool:
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Not a lot of room to get at the filter in a big block, small car. My TBird has huge spring towers that take up 1/2 the engine bay.

March system.jpg
 
Dark Soul said:
Not a lot of room to get at the filter in a big block, small car. My TBird has huge spring towers that take up 1/2 the engine bay.

View attachment 9069
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This Cobra has a remote oil filter mounted vertically on a cross brace in front of the engine. The engine sits back pretty far for weight distribution so it's really easy to get at and you can fill the filter full before installing it. There's no way to get a jack under it to lift it to get to the drain plug though. The suspension is set up for road course racing so it sits a bit lower than "stock." I plan on raising the ride height about 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I get it up on a lift. I'll change the oil, grease everything and go over all the undercarriage bolts then. I do it every spring. This car is surprisingly solid and well built, better than most. I did a lot of research over 2 years before I bought this one. The body dimensions are closest to the originals compared to other makes, unless you want to spend a minimum of $150k for a Kirkham or a CCX Contemporary classic. I am looking into having it buffed, polished and ceramic coated, the paint is in excellent condition. A ceramic coating will last for years (6+) and won't need waxed.
 
RB 60 said:
This Cobra has a remote oil filter mounted vertically on a cross brace in front of the engine. The engine sits back pretty far for weight distribution so it's really easy to get at and you can fill the filter full before installing it. There's no way to get a jack under it to lift it to get to the drain plug though. The suspension is set up for road course racing so it sits a bit lower than "stock." I plan on raising the ride height about 1/4 to 1/2 inch when I get it up on a lift. I'll change the oil, grease everything and go over all the undercarriage bolts then. I do it every spring. This car is surprisingly solid and well built, better than most. I did a lot of research over 2 years before I bought this one. The body dimensions are closest to the originals compared to other makes, unless you want to spend a minimum of $150k for a Kirkham or a CCX Contemporary classic. I am looking into having it buffed, polished and ceramic coated, the paint is in excellent condition. A ceramic coating will last for years (6+) and won't need waxed.
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Is yours a Factory Five?

That's cool about the remote oil filter. However I don't have room for anything. My car is the complete opposite of a race set-up. It's a big ol' luxury boat.

Also, I put a remote filter for the transmission exactly opposite of the oil filter (and use the same part number) so the engine looks symmetrical underneath.

You might want to look into the vacuum method of oil changes for your car. No lifting whatsoever. I've done it twice now on the Macan, and with a bit of technique it's easy to get every bit of it out. At least as much as a normal drain. A Mityvac 7201 is only $100 and should last me forever.
 
Dark Soul said:
Is yours a Factory Five?

That's cool about the remote oil filter. However I don't have room for anything. My car is the complete opposite of a race set-up. It's a big ol' luxury boat.

Also, I put a remote filter for the transmission exactly opposite of the oil filter (and use the same part number) so the engine looks symmetrical underneath.

You might want to look into the vacuum method of oil changes for your car. No lifting whatsoever. I've done it twice now on the Macan, and with a bit of technique it's easy to get every bit of it out. At least as much as a normal drain. A Mityvac 7201 is only $100 and should last me forever.
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It's a factory built Unique Motorcars 427 Model out of Gadsden, AL. The motor is a 1962 406 cu. NASCAR block bored to 427 (515 HP), backed by a close ratio Toploader with a 3:30 Jaguar XK6 (fully independent) rear end. It runs and handles pretty good. It's small, loud, obnoxious and difficult to drive (no PS or PB), but definitely a blast to drive. It's quite the attention getter too.

Eng & Int 001.jpg

I put it up on a lift every spring to change the oil and grease the front and rear ends. There are lots of grease fittings and lots of U-joints, I make sure they don't dry out, many look difficult to change. I have it inspected (PA requires a once a year inspection) every Oct. before I put it away for the winter too.
 
RB 60 said:
It's a factory built Unique Motorcars 427 Model out of Gadsden, AL. The motor is a 1962 406 cu. NASCAR block bored to 427 (515 HP), backed by a close ratio Toploader with a 3:30 Jaguar XK6 (fully independent) rear end. It runs and handles pretty good. It's small, loud, obnoxious and difficult to drive (no PS or PB), but definitely a blast to drive. It's quite the attention getter too.

View attachment 9153

I put it up on a lift every spring to change the oil and grease the front and rear ends. There are lots of grease fittings and lots of U-joints, I make sure they don't dry out, many look difficult to change. I have it inspected (PA requires a once a year inspection) every Oct. before I put it away for the winter too.
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That's awesome. Chevy block? I like the period correct expansion tank.

I just looked them up. On my bucket list to stop by and see the shop. U-joints instead of CV's though?

We have a great transmission and driveshaft shop here. I had them rebuild a late 80's AOD for me, install it in my '64, test drive and adjust it. Then they did a custom driveshaft using my input and output castings and a new, longer tube. Check out their "artwork". Clean, sandblast, new tube welded on to my castings, heat straighten, new joints, balance and paint for just over $250.

1.jpg

2.jpg
 
Dark Soul said:
That's awesome. Chevy block? I like the period correct expansion tank.

I just looked them up. On my bucket list to stop by and see the shop. U-joints instead of CV's though?

We have a great transmission and driveshaft shop here. I had them rebuild a late 80's AOD for me, install it in my '64, test drive and adjust it. Then they did a custom driveshaft using my input and output castings and a new, longer tube. Check out their "artwork". Clean, sandblast, new tube welded on to my castings, heat straighten, new joints, balance and paint for just over $250.

View attachment 9154

View attachment 9155
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No, definitely a Ford 406FE block (I'm a die-hard Ford man!). They were only cast from '62 1/2 through '63 1/2. They were a 2-bolt main block, a few were cast (for NASCAR) with crossbolt 4-bolt bosses cast in them (like I have) with 427 cylinder wall cores. Mine is drilled and crossbolted. The engine was built in 2002 by Southern Automotive and is very strong. With the close ratio Toploader and the rear gearing, it still has great low end torque and good top end. I had it up to 135 mph and it had a ways to go. I will say the guys who raced these things back in the day had balls! They are a handful. Wicked fast, small and uncomfortable, but loads of fun to drive.
To buy one with the options mine has and a (not nearly as rare) later 427FE block (standard in the '65 Cobras) would run you about $70k, cheaper if you built it yourself.

Those expansion tanks are hard to come by from what I have read. I bought the car from an older retired gentleman who never raced it and who's wife had trouble getting in and out of it. He bought a Lotus after he sold the Cobra to me. And yes, you are correct, CV joints. My mistake.

That shaft looks good, nice work there and a reasonable price. We have a good shop here too, they do a lot of work for the local sprint car and late model guys.
My mechanic is also a die-hard Ford man. He has a '70 MACH I with a stout 428 (2X4) and it sounds like it wants to jump right out of the engine compartment!
 
RB 60 said:
No, definitely a Ford 406FE block (I'm a die-hard Ford man!). They were only cast from '62 1/2 through '63 1/2. They were a 2-bolt main block, a few were cast (for NASCAR) with crossbolt 4-bolt bosses cast in them (like I have) with 427 cylinder wall cores. Mine is drilled and crossbolted. The engine was built in 2002 by Southern Automotive and is very strong. With the close ratio Toploader and the rear gearing, it still has great low end torque and good top end. I had it up to 135 mph and it had a ways to go. I will say the guys who raced these things back in the day had balls! They are a handful. Wicked fast, small and uncomfortable, but loads of fun to drive.
To buy one with the options mine has and a (not nearly as rare) later 427FE block (standard in the '65 Cobras) would run you about $70k, cheaper if you built it yourself.

Those expansion tanks are hard to come by from what I have read. I bought the car from an older retired gentleman who never raced it and who's wife had trouble getting in and out of it. He bought a Lotus after he sold the Cobra to me. And yes, you are correct, CV joints. My mistake.

That shaft looks good, nice work there and a reasonable price. We have a good shop here too, they do a lot of work for the local sprint car and late model guys.
My mechanic is also a die-hard Ford man. He has a '70 MACH I with a stout 428 (2X4) and it sounds like it wants to jump right out of the engine compartment!
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Not so rare anymore: http://classicfordradiator.com/1960-64-Ford-Mercury-Galaxie-Coolant-Expansion-Tank-EXP-1.aspx

Although pricey. Mine leaks a bit and next time I flush the radiator I'm going to solder it back up.
 
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