Co worker issue

uscitizen said:
did you ever solve the lock mystery ?

yeah you are gettin to me bad.
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We bypassed the power supply and hooked up a 24v 7ah battery directly to the lock itself, and the door operated as it should. However, when we go back to the honeywell dedicated power supply, the behavior of the door relies solely on the length of the grounding wire.

It a touch bar door where once it is touched, it grounds, drains a minute amount of voltage from the relay and trips it. So it should either ground or not. But there's apparently other factors at play. If the grounding wire from the board to the bar is longer than about 8 inches, it goes on continual reset, whereas if it is less than that, it works okay. Problem is that the bar itself becomes a 3' grounding wire and continually resets.

Thanks for listening, I'm sure its been fascinating as all hell.
 
Beefy said:
We bypassed the power supply and hooked up a 24v 7ah battery directly to the lock itself, and the door operated as it should. However, when we go back to the honeywell dedicated power supply, the behavior of the door relies solely on the length of the grounding wire.

It a touch bar door where once it is touched, it grounds, drains a minute amount of voltage from the relay and trips it. So it should either ground or not. But there's apparently other factors at play. If the grounding wire from the board to the bar is longer than about 8 inches, it goes on continual reset, whereas if it is less than that, it works okay. Problem is that the bar itself becomes a 3' grounding wire and continually resets.

Thanks for listening, I'm sure its been fascinating as all hell.
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Capacitance....
Picking up voltage from flourescent lights, etc I would have to use a scope on it to see what it was.
 
Beefy said:
Its not that. Been done. All the things we can think of have been done.
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Use the Palin plan and use your Mavericky skills.... Take the problem, think how a Maverick would deal with it, then when you have figured that out, do that, don'tyaknow?
 
uscitizen said:
Well obviously it is something you have not thought of.
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Thank you Watson. Same goes for you. There's a unique situation going in here and it must involve the power supply, but its not rogue AC, its not interference, its not corrupt lines, its not the board, the bar, the ground wire or the lock, its not the reader.

So wise guy, tell me what it is. Power supply = problem. But how to fix? Keep in mind its had 5 different power supplies, two from the box, two from an 2 different outlets on 2 transformers, and one directly hardwired from the 24v 7ah battery. Only the batter worked.
 
Beefy said:
Thank you Watson. Same goes for you. There's a unique situation going in here and it must involve the power supply, but its not rogue AC, its not interference, its not corrupt lines, its not the board, the bar, the ground wire or the lock, its not the reader.

So wise guy, tell me what it is. Power supply = problem. But how to fix? Keep in mind its had 5 different power supplies, two from the box, two from an 2 different outlets on 2 transformers, and one directly hardwired from the 24v 7ah battery. Only the batter worked.
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It's the big electromagnet that you set up right next to the power supply...
 
Beefy said:
Thank you Watson. Same goes for you. There's a unique situation going in here and it must involve the power supply, but its not rogue AC, its not interference, its not corrupt lines, its not the board, the bar, the ground wire or the lock, its not the reader.

So wise guy, tell me what it is. Power supply = problem. But how to fix? Keep in mind its had 5 different power supplies, two from the box, two from an 2 different outlets on 2 transformers, and one directly hardwired from the 24v 7ah battery. Only the batter worked.
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what is the output of the power supply ?
Did you measure for ripple on the power supply with a scope ? I expect so.
A scope is much better for seeing things than a DMM.
Have you tried putting a cap accross the power supply close to the unit in question ?
Actually 2 caps at a guess about a .1 and a 100 uf. also is the unit very low current drain while not poerating the solenoid ? You ight need to load the power supply just a bit with a resistor ? I dunno I would have to check it with a scope and study the schematics a bit.
 
Its 28vdc Right where it should be. And of course I've used resistors and a meter.

Explain what you mean by a cap on the power supply.

And the solenoid i receiving the same power and activation at a twin door 120 feet away.
 
Beefy said:
Its 28vdc Right where it should be. And of course I've used resistors and a meter.

Explain what you mean by a cap on the power supply.

And the solenoid i receiving the same power and activation at a twin door 120 feet away.
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if it is noise or capacitance on the power supply feed to the unit a capacitor from the pos to neg lead close to the unit or even where the power goes into the unit might help. Maybe a .1 uf cap ? Like I say I would need to study the unit and the cap. sounds like it has to be some sort of noise or something on the power leads.

As I said before an oscilloscope is much better than a dmm for spotting such things.
 
Whoa. I would love one of those oscopes. I think I'll lobby the management to gt one. If it would have troubleshot this door problem right away, it would have paid for itself in its first job.
 
Beefy said:
Whoa. I would love one of those oscopes. I think I'll lobby the management to gt one. If it would have troubleshot this door problem right away, it would have paid for itself in its first job.
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Dual trace with delayed trigger. 100 mhz bandwith should be ok for most things.
Techtronix is my fav brand.

I have an one one I bought refurbished, works great.
if noise on the line you can figure out the frequency and from that figure out which size Capacitor would filter it out.
 
uscitizen said:
Dual trace with delayed trigger. 100 mhz bandwith should be ok for most things.
Techtronix is my fav brand.

I have an one one I bought refurbished, works great.
if noise on the line you can figure out the frequency and from that figure out which size Capacitor would filter it out.
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Rad. What do those run?
 
Beefy said:
Rad. What do those run?
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For a refurb 475 tektronix with a dual trace module and deleyed sweep with probes , I thnk around 1,500. I have not priced the newer ones, they have small lightweignt digital ones now. do a search on oscilloscpe. You need one with analog inputs. Some are just for working with logic level circuitry.
 
I'm getting a new car. Al's getting the worst car in the fleet. He's going to cry the fuck about it all night.

Pray for me.
 
uscitizen said:
if it is noise or capacitance on the power supply feed to the unit a capacitor from the pos to neg lead close to the unit or even where the power goes into the unit might help. Maybe a .1 uf cap ? Like I say I would need to study the unit and the cap. sounds like it has to be some sort of noise or something on the power leads.

As I said before an oscilloscope is much better than a dmm for spotting such things.
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In 40000+ posts, this is the first time I've seen uscitizen sound smart, seriously, it's like I have to check twice to convince myself it's really the same guy.
 
Matty,

I've had a similar case with employees who sucked in different ways, but as a person more than capable of being a big asshole I have no trouble at all getting in their face and telling them specifically what they are doing wrong, even if it's a big list. Sometimes I've even thrown in what other people think of them (as usually when they are lazy/incompetent you aren't the only one to notice), this makes it very uncomfortable and forces them to realize they are the weak link. Other people usually thank you later and give you the speech about how they always wanted to say that.
Every single time, there was a complete turnaround, it's almost an instinct in people not to be worst as bad things happen, especially publicly.

Another trick is to save how and when they fucked up for when the boss is around BUT you pretend you didn't notice the boss was around. This is a great way of getting attention to his problems without looking like a tattletale. The boss just "happens" to overhear the fuckup and good things can only happen from there, as he gets accountability and you don't end up looking like someone who tried to get him in shit, you just look like someone who isn't very observative of what he says which further makes him worry about future fuckups.

You can do this with email too. Send an email to buddy about his fuckup, and then CC the boss while asking the boss some question not pertaining or slightly pertaining to the fuckup. Again this alerts the boss while only looking like your trying to kill 2 birds with one email and didn't think to send them seperate.
 
KingCondanomation said:
In 40000+ posts, this is the first time I've seen uscitizen sound smart, seriously, it's like I have to check twice to convince myself it's really the same guy.
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I am a darned good techie. I have only met 2 or 3 better than I am at troubleshooting problems in my lifetime.
 
LadyT said:
Did you ever run into this situation when you worked at McDonalds?
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Yeah, but we both know you don't care. It's funny how lefties always claim to be for the little guy as whenever I've mentioned a shit job I worked at, Liberals immediately chime in with derisive comments about it.
 
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